Gourmet Pizzo
Author:
Rich Rubin
photograph by Rich Rubin Perched above the Tyrrhenian Sea near the toe of Italy’s boot, Pizzo may look like it’s made of stone, but it’s really a town built on gelato. Its 60 gelaterie turn out ice cream that is simply terrific. “An obligatory stop,” my regional guidebook calls Pizzo, “for anyone who wants to taste the goodness of homemade gelato.” A Roman friend of mine says firmly, “It’s the best in Italy.” What makes the stuff so good? The milk, for starters: It’s often local, and never powdered. The area also grows good strawberries, citrus fruits, and nuts, all of which end up in the gelato. “It’s the ingredients that make the gelato, not the machines,” says Bar Ercole’s master gelato maker, Gaetano Di Iorgi. He adds that Pizzo’s ice cream production is tailored to demand, so the gelato doesn’t lose creaminess to long-term freezing. “We only make as much as we need,” says Di Iorgi. “When the weather’s not so hot, we might only need to make some flavors once or twice a week.”
Laptop Battery Ten gelaterie ring the town’s Piazza della Repubblica. At one of them, Bar Dante, I try frutti di bosco, “fruit of the woods”, made with blackberries, currants, wild strawberries, and raspberries (heaven); at Antica Gelateria Belvedere, a slice of torta Belvedere affogata al caffè, a cake of toasted-hazelnut nougat ice cream drizzled with hot espresso (bliss); and, at Gelateria Riga, tartufo, “truffle”, formed by hand from hazelnut-chocolate gelato, with a semiliquid, dark chocolate center and a last-minute external dusting of cocoa powder (paradise). The pièce de résistance, though, is Bar Ercole’s cassata alla siciliana, a dome of custard and pistachio gelati layered with ladyfingers soaked in a fruity red liqueur, then frosted with whipped cream and flecked with bits of chocolate and candied fruit. “It’s called siciliana,” says Di Iorgi jovially, who learned the technique from a visiting Sicilian master, “but we make it right here.”
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Thinkpad On a farewell visit to Ercole, my friend wants her crema siciliana—a gelato of sheep’s-milk ricotta with chocolate flakes and candied fruit—in a cone, alongside orange sorbet. Di Iorgi shakes his head. “Sorbetto d’arancia with crema siciliana is not a good idea,” he intones. She chooses chocolate instead. I opt for hazelnut, accompanied by a pear gelato that is studded with fruit, exploding with flavor. The ripe sweetness still detonating in our mouths, we leave Pizzo: the winding streets, the cliffside castle, the geranium-filled balconies…and—sweetest sorrow of all—the gelato.
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