Not-So-Humble Pie
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photograph by Christopher Hirsheimer Everything in the dining room at Genoa's Circolo Tunnel club is done with high style and attention to detail. The food is complex and delicious; impeccably trained waiters in white gloves serve members at tables draped with creamy linens and set with gleaming silver. Just before service begins, the staff sits in a far simpler setting for a homier meal. One course might be polpettone di patate e fagiolini—a kind of crustless tart of potatoes, green beans, and cheese, topped with bread crumbs and baked until golden brown. Upstairs or downstairs, everyone eats well in Italy.
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