Route 61
Author:
Ted Drozdowski
Laptop Battery Exploring the Mississippi Delta.
According to the indictment, Jones would steal various IBM and Penguin computer servers from Verisign's warehouse in Virginia and sell them to Johnson. Johnson would then sell the servers to several individuals, who would sometimes place them for sale on eBay. As a result of this scheme, the indictment alleges that Jones and Johnson caused Verisign to lose more than $120, 000 worth of computer equipment. In the indictment, Jones and Johnson are charged in three counts with causing the interstate transportation of stolen property, namely IBM 330 and 335 servers, in violation of 18 U.S.C.
Thinkpad As a longstanding joke goes, the two biggest cities in Mississippi are Memphis and New Orleans. But in between lies the cradle of American popular music, the Mississippi Delta. And along its major artery, Highway 61, you can visit places that still rock with the sound and soul of raw down-home blues.
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Microsoft The lobby of Memphiss Peabody Hotel (149 Union Ave.; 901-529-4000) is not among them, yet for the price of a cocktail, it provides a taste of Old World elegance and a contrast to the rural poverty that lies 90 minutes to the south, in the land where the blues were born. Beale Street, a former hub of black culture where B.B. King, Bukka White, Rufus Thomas and other great bluesmen got their start, is just blocks away. Although few of the street's original storefronts remain, on a lucky night you might catch the city's hardest-working guitarist, Preston Shannon, who slips crafty originals between versions of "Mustang Sally" and "Sweet Home Alabama," or Richard Johnston, a young, white Mississippi-hill-country-blues torchbearer who plays on the street in front of the New Daisy Theater.
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Laptop Computers There's only one real juke joint left in Memphis: Wild Bill's (1580 Vollintine Ave.; 901-726-5473), which built its reputation presenting local artists like Big Lucky Carter, who recorded for the Sun and Hi labels, and the Fieldstones. You can also occasionally hear good blues at the Center for Southern Folklore (119 South Main St.; 901-525-3655), although in a more antiseptic setting.
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Laptop Computer Fortified by a hearty meat-and-two plate from Ellen's Soul Food (601 South Parkway East; 901-942-4888), head south on Route 61, to Clarksdale, Mississippi, the birthplace of John Lee Hooker, Sam Cooke, Junior Parker and Ike Turner. As one leaves Tennessee, the strip malls give way to flat, fertile land where cotton remains king. Miles of fields keep the blacktop company, interrupted by gins and billboards for casinos, which have put many juke joints out of business.
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Desktop Computer A right turn at the crossroads of 61 and Highway 49 leads to downtown Clarksdale, where the only remnants of a juke-joint scene that once jumped to the beat of Howlin' Wolf and Sonny Boy Williamson (Rice Miller) are Red's (662-627-3166) and the shuttered Rivermont Lounge, on Sunflower Avenue. Clarksdale's blues heyday is celebrated at Ground Zero (0 Blues Alley; 662-621-9009), a new juke-themed club co-owned by actor Morgan Freeman, and at the Delta Blues Museum (1 Blues Alley; 662-627-6820), formerly the freight depot of the train station where Muddy Waters left Mississippi for Chicago in 1943.
Notebooks For a real taste of Delta life, visit Clarksdale in humid August, when the region's remaining down-home performers gather for the free Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival (662-627-6820). And stay at the Riverside Hotel (615 Sunflower Ave.; 662-627-2694), where each creaky floorboard has a story. Nearly every important blues and jazz figure who played Mississippi during segregation, from Pops Staples to Duke Ellington, stayed at the Riverside. Bessie Smith died there after an auto accident in 1937, when it was still the Thomas Afro-American Hospital. If it's Sunday, catch services at the Bell Grove Missionary Baptist Church (831 Garfield St.; 662-624-2920), where Waters's cousin, gospel singer Willie Morganfield, is pastor. Before leaving town,visit Abe's Bar-B-Q (616 State St.; 662-624-9947) for a Big Abe, the pork sandwich favored by Big Jack Johnson, Clarksdale's reigning guitar wizard.
Lenovo Continuing down the highway through Mississippi, you'll find the lonely grave of Sonny Boy Williamson behind the cotton patches of impoverished Tutwiler, a few miles up Highway 49 from the infamous Parchman Farm, where both bluesmen and civil-rights activists were imprisoned. At Margaret's Grocery (601-638-1163), just north of Business 61 in Vicksburg, the Reverend H.D. and Margaret Dennis have turned their former market into a rainbow-hued tabernacle cobbled together from old tiles, bricks, cinder blocks, plastic flowers, beads and a school bus. Over the entrance to the former store, paintbrushed lettering proclaims, all are welcome. Expect a good-natured sermon from the Reverend—especially if he finds out you're on the trail of that ol' devil music.
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