Cookbooks by the hundreds have come into my New York City apartment over the past few decades, some bought, some given as gifts, and some sent by publishers. Most of them have been read and then relegated to ampler bookshelves in our country home. Only a few choice cookbooks stay with me in the city. The original, 1972 American edition of Claudia Roden’s A Book of Middle Eastern Food (Alfred A. Knopf) is one of those.
Laptop Battery This is only partly because of the recipes, a cornucopia of delicacies such as Syrian kibbeh (made with a paste of pounded lamb and bulgur) and Persian sweet-and-sour lamb with apples and cherries. It is more because Roden transports me so completely and beguilingly into her past, a world of French-speak-ing Egyptians of Sephardic-Jewish descent who at first lived a happy, upper-class life in 1940s and ’50s Cairo and then, owing to the Egyptian–Israeli war, were forced into exile in the West. As I read, I feel I’m with Roden in her childhood as she, with a host of cousins, aunts, and uncles, goes off to the Pyramids, making the customary stop along the way at Le Café des Pigeons. I am right there in that old restau-rant garden, overgrown with jasmine and bougainvillea, taking delicate bites from the restaurant’s namesake charcoal broiled, lemon-and-chervil-scented birds. I am with her, too, on the balcony of an aunt’s apartment in Alexandria, where a basket is lowered to the café below for an order of falafel.
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Thinkpad Now there is a fresh version of Roden’s classic, called The New Book of Middle Eastern Food. How different is it? This time the jacket has Roden’s name above the title. She was a star to many of us 30 years ago, but now, after she has written five other books and hosted a BBC television series, it is nice to see her stature recognized more visibly. I am also happy to report that packaged inside the glossy jacket and larger size is most of the old book. Still woven around the recipes, like the glorious banyan vines that are integrated with the buildings at Angkor Wat in Cambodia, are riddles, poems, jokes, and tales taken from ancient and modern texts. Here, unlike in Cambodia, the vines feed and nourish; the stories allow Islamic history and culture to seep in and give the recipes what all recipes cry out for, context and roots.
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Microsoft There are, however, some changes. The extensive introduction, with its history of Arab culinary traditions, has been amplified. And there are more couscous dishes from Algeria and Morocco; lighter approaches to eggplant, including broiling; and more seafood recipes acknowledging contemporary trends in eating.
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Laptop Computers In one of the major helpful additions, every recipe now declares right at the top just how many it serves. Strangely enough, the old book did not do so, except in the faraway introduction, where it suggested that each recipe served six. That “six” turned out to be a very loose figure. I remember making dukkah, a spice-and-nut dip, and even though the recipe hinted that it yielded “a good deal”, I was not prepared for the several-year supply I ended up with. This time the dukkah recipe, given with much smaller and easier-to-handle qualities, clearly states, “Makes 4 cups.”
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Laptop Computer The whole book is now tighter, crisper, and better organized. The vegetable section, which was charmingly haphazard, going from potatoes to eggplant to zucchini to eggplant again, then back to zucchini and potatoes in what can best be described as “garland style”, now generally toes the line of bunching all recipes that use the same vegetable in one area.
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Desktop Computer Greater clarity has enhanced the phrasing and the writing as well: “Soak and stir the rice in boiling water” is certainly less clear than the newer “Wash the rice in boiling water, then rinse under a cold tap and drain.” Cooking times for artichokes and fava beans have been—quite correctly—shortened.
Notebooks In the reorganized new book, old favorites have been dusted and polished, while new ones, such as the superb Moroccan bean and meat soup called harira and the light, exotic, and easy-to-prepare fruit dessert of orange slices in orange syrup, have been seamlessly added. But some recipes are just gone. The one for sheep’s head, I am very sad to report, has been axed. MADHUR JAFFREY, a SAVEUR consulting editor, has written numerous cookbooks, including An Invitation to Indian Cooking (reissued by Ecco Press in 1999) and Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian (Clarkson Potter, 1999), winner of the 2000 James Beard award for best international cookbook.
