Rib Tickler
Author:
Rich Lang One evening I take some finicky American friends for kalbi jjim (braised beef short ribs) at the local status palace, Woo Lae Oak, which has similarly sleek branches in Beverly Hills, Manhattan, Washington, D.C., Chicago, and Seoul. It's the kind of place frequented by Korean women draped in Chanel and Prada who arrive by black Mercedeses, cell phones glued to their ears. Not surprisingly, the kalbi jjim looks like sculpture: chunks of meat, carrot, and daikon stacked like boulders in a sweet soy-sauce glaze and presented in a heavy ceramic bowl. With its garlic, ginger, dried red dates, and ginkgo nuts, the dish is emblematic of a cuisine that beats a path straight to your soul.
Laptop Battery There is another beef dish, however, that better epitomizes the earthiness of this fare: Korean barbecue—called bulgogi when made with rib eye or sirloin and kalbi kui when made with beef short ribs. (For both kinds, the meat is usually marinated before it is grilled.) This is the Korean dish most familiar to foreigners, and it's said to be descended from the ancient practice of cooking meat on big iron rice-pot covers thrown over a fire.
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Thinkpad At Soot Bull Jeep (''charcoal house''), where Korean barbecue reaches ethereal heights, the formula is straightforward: Come hungry, leave happy. The grills are charcoal, not electric, and are built into the middle of your table; the ingredients are top-notch; and the portions are generous. Families and friends gather to knock back soju, pick at pan chan, and add morsels of tender, well-marbled rib eye, sirloin, or short ribs into lettuce leaves stuffed with rice, grilled garlic and jalapeños, fermented soybean paste, and hot red-pepper paste. Midway through yet another memorable feast at the restaurant, I realize that the meal has the same lighthearted spirit as an American barbecue.
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