Read Your Veggies
Author:
Christopher Hirsheimer
photograph by Mary Ellen Bartley
Several years ago, I had the pleasure of sitting next to Deborah
Madison at a lunch in her honor at a macrobiotic restaurant.
Halfway through the meal, after too many dreary plates of sour
pickled plums, thick lentil patties on dry rice cakes, and piles of
quinoa garnished with shriveled strands of seaweed, Madison leaned
over, looking hopelessly at the birdseed on her plate, and confided
to me quietly (to spare her hostess's feelings), "Everyone thinks
I'm a vegetarian, but I'm not."
Laptop Battery Sometimes (now don't get all huffy, vegetarians, I've been one
myself—even did a little macrobiotic time), vegetarians are not
always kind to their vegetables. Madison, who has previously
written The Greens Cookbook and The Savory Way,
both full of inspired vegetable recipes, may not be a
vegetarian—but she
sure knows her way around the
produce department. She can cook and coax the most flavor out of
any vegetable on the planet, and in her latest book,
Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone (published last year),
she shares culinary wisdom and knowledge, along with 1,400
sensual recipes like macaroni smothered with onions, braised
celery root with garlic croutons, rosemary pappardelle with
roasted winter vegetables and red wine ra-gout, polenta
dumplings with warm sage and garlic butter…. Sing it to me,
Deborah! I'm heading to the
kitchen!
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Thinkpad Madison mixes her quinoa with currants and pine nuts,
molds it into timbales and serves it with braised green peas; now
that sounds good. Her vinegared beets nested in their greens is
such an elegant little recipe— steaming the beets to enhance their
sweet earthy flavor, then dressing them with butter and a splash of
vinegar. And listen to the language and tone of her recipes:
"Discard any greens that don't look up to snuff," for instance.
Doesn't that sound
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Microsoft Reassuring—like a friend's voice guiding you
along?
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Laptop Computers There are more than 900 cookbooks published each year in this
country. Many of them are well written, some are well designed,
some are filled with well-researched culinary information. But it's
rare to find one book where all of these qualities come
together—and in Madison's book, they do. Its beautiful and
intelligent design—a smart use of type and color—helps the reader
to easily sort through the information on the page, making it a
pleasure to use. The recipe headnotes that float in the margins go
beyond mere descriptions of the dishes; sometimes there's a
historical culinary tidbit, or a variation, or a menu idea. The
poetic illustrations are more than decorative: They're hardworking,
showing the characteristics of a particular vegetable or clarifying
an important aspect of a technique. And the photos by Laurie Smith
(a SAVEUR contributor) are absolutely delicious.
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Laptop Computer Madison took more than six years to write her book, and it
shows. There's nothing hurried or slapdash about it; it's a
benchmark cookbook—a work of great depth, generosity, and
love. What resonates throughout
is Madison's kindly counsel about the process of cooking. "All
cooks should know from the start that cooking is an inexact
business..." she writes.
"Cooking doesn't progress in a straight line but meanders from
here to there.... If you can see the whole picture, you have an
enormous advantage.... Like tying a shoe, it's one of those
things that is hopelessly complicated to describe but crucial to
learn and once you do, it becomes second
nature." All this encouragement,
all this sound logic, appear by page 7.
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Desktop Computer Keep reading; there are 735 more delicious pages to come. The
only thing wrong with James Peterson's new book,
Vegetables, is its timing. My copy of his award-winning
Fish & Shellfish (Morrow 1996) is one of my most-used
books; it's so thorough and well written that it is really
essential for any cook's library. Normally, then, I'd have been
full of anticipation when I heard that he had applied his
considerable knowledge to vegetables. But having seen Madison's
book, I was almost tempted to pass this one by. Fortunately, I
didn't, because it's a great book—a book about vegetables, but not
exclusively vegetarian. (Some of Peterson's dishes, for example,
include anchovies, bacon, and duck.) The first half of the book
contains basic preparation techniques for vegetables, arranged
alphabetically, and all the recipes live in the second half. These
recipes, I must say, didn't inspire me as much as Madison's did;
they're not as lyrical. But I have a feeling I will keep
Vegetables around for a long time, for its wealth of
sensible information.
Notebooks Both Madison and Peterson grew up in northern California,
surrounded by some of the best produce in the world, so it's not
surprising that they both have deep respect for what others might
think of as the green stuff beside the meat. Another mindset
altogether is found in Karen Hubert Allison's posthumous
Vegetarian Compass. Now this is a horseradish of a
different color—the other end of the spectrum from The
Enchanted Broccoli Forest. This is hip haute cuisine for
non-meat eaters, a collection of hardcore vegetarian recipes on the
order of refried beans with truffles (!)—okay, it's a play on plain
and fancy—or tempeh scallopine in rhubarb beurre blanc or seitan
roulade stuffed with mushrooms and figs. I see where this book is
going, but I'm not so sure I want to go with it. But Allison does
mix up cultures in an interesting way and is clever about sneaking
in the protein so necessary to vegetarians
(like folding, just before serving, tiny cubes of fried tempeh into
risotto with preserved lemons and spicy green olives). Pretty darn
far out.
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